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Cutting the Base and Sanding |
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 While
I could just drill the hole (if I were making an oil lamp like here) and
flip it around to cut away the back, I prefer to just scrunch myself in
next to the headstock. The main reason to work this way is that for
every single degree the piece is off from being perfectly inline when
flipped around, the wings will vary in thickness greatly from |
side
to side. Think of it in terms of this. If I cut the wings without
flipping it over , there is no way for me to move the top and bottom of
the wing out of parallel alignment with each other.
If I were to flip it over, then the chances of it being out of alignment are greatly increased |
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 Now,
a little bit at a time, I cut up the backside to remove the material.
There are occasion where I will need to turn left handed, this is where
being ambidextrous would be of great benefit. Now is the time where you
know more of how the wood is going to react and can start finalizing the
ideas of the end shape. |
 This
"inward" cut is routinely used with the "upward" cut
of the previous picture. By using these in combination, you can cut away
all this "excess" material. |
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 If
you click on this picture, you get a good view of the way that the gouge
is directed to get the more delicate cuts on the front and back side of
the "wings" |
 Use
a sanding block to get any little rough spots out on the bottom of the
wings. Start with a 220 grit and go up as needed. If you can't get any
tool marks out with 220, go to 180. Try not to go much below the 180. |
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 Now
you sand the back and sides of the base. Again I am using a strip of
fabric backed sandpaper wrapped around a length of foam. You only want
to sand from the inside to barely outside of the circle. |
 If
you sand onto the wings too far, it will start to round over the edges. |
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Now if you need to clean up the sides you can use the same sanding
blocks. Start at a higher number. You just want to clean up any little
nicks, not really reshape. |
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