Drilling Turning the Bottom  and Finishing		With an 1 1/2" forstner bit in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock, and the lathe off, bring the drill bit just up to the wood. Use some tape or something to mark the bit about 1 1/4" up the bit so you know when you are getting close
Turn the lathe on and bring the speed up to about 500RPM. Drill in a little and then back out to clear the shavings. When you get down to your mark, back out the drill and shut off the lathe.		Back out the drill bit and put a lamp in and check the depth. It is rather subjective, but drill until the lamp fits right for that shape. A little high or low in the hole or flush. Once completed, remove from the chuck.
One of the ways to reverse chuck is to use jam chucks that will go into a 4 jaw chuck, or like this one. It is a #2 morse taper and a drill taper on the other. I them take some Nylon glue it on with CA glue, then turn it down to 1 1/2".		Bring up the tail stock and tighten it up. Spin the lamp by hand and make sure nothing hits. Turn on the lathe and spinning it slowly, making sure it spins true. If it doesn't try pulling it out and put a piece of paper in one side. Do this until running true.
When you are turning down the waste block, you want to remove the material slowly. The main reason for this is that is there is a catch, it will spin the jig in the hole and burn the bottom of the hole. It won't affect the lamp, but it is cosmetic. Turn down until you have a little spigot.		Sand the bottom and take as much care to finish it as you would any other section. It is important that it look as planned and beautiful on the bottom as on the top.
I will use a small gouge that has the bevel ground round.		At a low speed, we will bring the gouge up and roll it over onto the edge and bring the point in and engage. If you are not using the reverseing jig as above, then when you get to the very last past, shut off the lathe and twist the wood with one hand and hold the gouge with the other.  If the tool is sharp, it will still cut through fine. Sand the little nub and remove from the jig.
For a finish, I use a simple 50/50 mix of clear lacquer (or sanding sealer) and lacquer thinner. Gloss is preferred, because you can make a gloss finish satin or matte, but not visa versa. Rub in several light coats instead of one thick coat. This will prevent any buildup. As an added extra measure, go lightly over the surface with 400 grit wet or dry.		As an extra measure, I would wait a couple of hours for the finish to completely dry and rub another coat over it. Then the next day, before buffing, lightly sand with a very high grit sandpaper, 600 to 1200 if the quality of finish desired warrants it.
As a final finish, I like to buff. Shown here is the Beall buffing system. A progressive system of multiple waxes and a final wax finish of pure Carnauba. As an alternate, buff with Hut Pen wax or any of the fine padding lacquers on the market today.		There we have it. Let your mind wander with the design. The limitations are limited only by your mind and your gouge.